Chris & G Travels

19.02.2014 17:45:11

HypnicJerk

19.02.2014 18:56:16
That linkage is easy, normally its just a karter pin rusted and popped out. As for the roof rack, have billy make bigger feet for the  mounts, just weld a 1 foot x 1 foot squares to the bottoms to spread the surface area of the feet out. all the weight you put up there could hurt in the long run especially on fiberglass. with the bigger plates flat against the roof will distribute the weight on a bigger surface area. than bolt it on and use the same marine calk as your going to use on the windows on that.

Jeff Jones

20.02.2014 0:02:22
copy the rack on this page
?t=150482

Mike Wiscombe

19.02.2014 23:45:41
I'm across the pond, here I would sand blast the roof rack then have it powder coated that will stop the rust. to help secure the rack I would not have it fixed to the roof its only fiberglass and flexes leading to water ingress and mold. You must have structural supports holding the rack in place. Make sure any sealants you use are flexible when dry as its a live thing always on the move. The roof rack is probably the cause of water getting in. In Arizona you won't get mold as the moisture isn't there to support it, but as soon as you move to a more temperate climate you will find out if you still have a mold problem.

John Barlow

21.02.2014 22:34:04
the wiper problem you got to get a hole new link arm you just's prise the old one off were the gromit is then push the new ones on i had to do it to my 1994 bmw costs me 5 english pounds from a main bmw dealer so should not cost to much hope it helps go vid by the way 

Ben Life (Off the Grid 4 me)

25.02.2014 23:41:42
Just be aware of the weight of everything you add on. I fixed the linkage on my 88 $5. I had to take my hood off and then the cowling cover but it all took under an hour to fix and I am far from a mechanic meaning it was pretty easy and intuitive one you buy the wiper linkage kit. Good luck!

1970listowel

19.02.2014 20:21:36


Campervan Kevin

20.02.2014 3:14:19
I have alot of experience with herculiner. I dont know how to leave private message on youtube and I dont get messages either. I have a facebook ----- highpsiguy@ on there I have pictures of my herculined e350 camping van. Feel free to message me there. Please delete this when you have info so entire world wont spam me. Kevin

S. McCloy

20.02.2014 22:00:59
I would take time off and chop the entire top off see if I could employ one or many ideas in combination. IF you can get your hands on a topper that already fits then just go with a total glass top. If this is not an option I would look around at the junk shops and see if I could get a westy camper top and do half westie topper and half roof rack? I am brainstorming IDK if any of this can work but it is worth a try especially if you can make it where you can stand while you cook? Now stealthing is not too stealthy with a westie top up but I am a big on getting a CRAIGSLIST parking spot with water and a 110 plug. Pop a 110V 5K,BTU AC in that back window and insulate the FUCK out of that back room I would make it so tight that you could keep warm with a couple of candles. AK needs probably 2 inches of styrofoam spray foam sealed in corners. Make your fire where it took in air from outside so you don't suck in your heated air to warm your crib. You need an air ex change of sorts too to allow your breath moisture to leave your cabin? IDK man I would keep a camper in AK and one in AZ it would be cheaper to do that than to pay the fuel to run the zep back and fourth? I would chop a prius to make the trip and have bigger stuff on each end.

Justin Vaughn

20.02.2014 3:22:48
good thing the wipers are broke in AZ, no rain. But as far ass the seam to your roof and van body I wold get it to fit back in to were it goes. The fiber glass needs a bit of care. Also the seem, if you are worried about leaking try this tar tape Eterna Bound . That will seal up any seam. 

I also would worry more about the top fling off from the craked seam in the front.

Jeff Jones

19.02.2014 23:33:40


?dept=3



the last one is just an example i would do it a bit differently, i use to have racks on my hightop vans so i speak from experience there too.

Good luck

RubberTrampsReviews

19.02.2014 19:10:12
use Goop for sealing off leaks , works great .. take care

Jeff Jones

19.02.2014 23:30:55
Looks like you are in Arizona, if you ever come through Joshua Tree post it before.

Really should have taken the support for the rack down to the drip rails on the van, if you notice that's the way all van roof racks you buy commercially are made. You could also just buy a van ladder rack and extend it up for the fiberglass part and then attach the big rack to that, even the hightop/bubble top vans are done this way.

I would stay away from the bed liner, it is not formulated to stop the rust and is more of coating than a paint. You can however use something like POR15, or Miracle paint, they pretty much both just ripped off hammerite paint which is made to go right over rust with little or no prep and will stop all rust, you can also paint it on, put in some fiberglass material and give a second coat, this all has to be done while the previous coats are tacky. but don't take it from me i only use to run a paint store.

your water tank looks like it is missing the band clamps on the no hub connector?? if not they make a fiberglass kit that can be used to seal up leaking holding tanks.

Mark Riehle

20.02.2014 0:25:19
Rain X the front windshield. You wont regret it. Great stuff!

T “One Arm Bandit” Barnes

20.02.2014 3:44:59
The wiper linkage has 3 plastic bushings that are very common to break on the Dodge trucks and vans. I just had to replace them on my Dodge truck. If the bushings are your problem it is a lot easier to replace them if you remove the entire wiper transmission. They cost about $4 at any auto parts store.

c6rocks

20.02.2014 0:56:16
That roof-rack is costing you gobs of fuel in weight and aerodynamic drag Chris, and now you want to make it heavier? Billy did a class A job building it, but for your purpose, it is probably about three times more heavy duty than need be. I think you would be way better-off to invest in a little trailer, enclosed even. Then you can at least leave the extra drag secured at a camp site or somewhere in the vicinity of where you are staying at the time. Then as you're driving to work everyday, (Alaska) or just exploring the area, the van won't have to be so tired and thirsty all the , when they do the transmission, I would sure have them pack the wheel bearings too before your next Alaska venture, if you haven't already since you've owned it. My last suggestion for now would be. If you are thinking of doing a safe, I would also install a hidden kill-switch. It's one thing if a dirt bag KNOWS you have a safe. He MAY just be determined enough to tow the thing. But it's another story if someone just wants to steal your van (maybe for the roof ) not even knowing you have a safe. Just because people steal vehicles everyday, and since most stolen vehicles are just driven away. I don't think I'd mess with one too long if it wouldn't start in the normal way they usually do it. Just some things to ponder. Best Wishes.

BUDDY LIGHT

21.02.2014 1:09:44
You can get a complete used top if you look around and one that's even higher.
 If using the top you have, I would go completely around the existing fiberglass top with some fairly heavy aluminum and encase it in fiberglass marine resin like "The west System". Then drill all new holes and re-fasten the top with stainless nuts and bolts to the van and seal each drill hole with -> ?productId=21708&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50257&classNum=50259

1970listowel

19.02.2014 18:02:14
Rhino line the whole ,comes in different colors to

Scoutmastertroop101

19.02.2014 22:56:39
For the ladder on the back the is some 90% brackets made for electrical un-strut they are heavy duty and strong. I would blot them to the bumper and then bolt the ladder bottom to them . You may use the bracket on top and bottom and that would hold up to the rashness of the road. I would most differently get bigger feet for that rack and spread the weight out more on that roof.